Glossary
Skintx
Hydroquinone is the “gold standard” for topical pigmentation reduction including freckles, brown spots, age spots, pigmented acne scars, Melasma (hormonal pigmentation) and unevenness. Hydroquinone is the most important ingredient in the Skintx and is responsible for providing a healthy glow, while reducing acne, acne scarring as well as enlarged pores. Skintx is an extremely effective, take-home treatment program that contains these ingredients in a number of the different products. Hydroquinone works by decreasing the formation of excessive melanin (brown) in the skin. Hydroquinone is a very strong ingredient that can cause temporary redness and irritation, but should subside after a few days to a few weeks.
Dangers of Indoor Tanning Beds
It is a common misconception that indoor UV tanning beds are a safe way to get that “healthy glow.” There are many reported reasons for wanting to use tanning beds/booths including,
- Getting a base to avoid a burn
- Not looking healthy without some colour
- Using them prior to a warm vacation
While we understand these motivations, the significant risks that are associated with tanning beds far outweigh any potential benefits. This is especially considering all of the new technologies that can create the same healthy glow including indoor spray tanning and self-tanners. These products have continued to improve over the years and are now capable of creating a very natural looking outcome.
Indoor tanning on the other hand, exposes each and every individual who uses them to dangerous and carcinogenic (can lead to cancer) levels of radiation. Any amount of a tan is the body’s way of showing that it has incurred damage. Many people believe that tanning is safe and it is only damaging if you suffer a burn. This is a misconception, because UV exposure produces brown pigments (the tan) in response to tissue injury. According to the International Agency for Research on Cancer, young adults who use tanning beds have an increased risk of skin cancer by 75%. In addition, indoor tanning causes unpleasant pre-mature aging including deep wrinkles, loose skin and brown spots.
It is extremely problematic that the tanning industry aggressively advertises the safe use of tanning beds, claiming that it is the best and safest way to get Vitamin D. This is entirely false, since even the use of a high SPF sunscreen will not limit your Vitamin D exposure. Also, a normal diet will also provide most people with sufficient levels of Vitamin D.
Pigmentation Problems
Hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation is a common condition where patches of skin become darker in colour than normal surrounding skin. Darkening occurs when an excess of melanin (brown pigment that produces normal skin color) forms in the skin.
Hyperpigmentation can be caused by sun exposure, inflammatory acne, and exposure to synthetic lights (UV tanning beds). Treatment for hyperpigmented skin can include chemical peels (Kojic Acid Peels); topical creams containing hydroquinone (Skintx) and Dermamelan Link to Dermamelan.
Hypopigmentation
Hypopigmentation is the loss of the production of melanin, and can cause areas of skin to appear white in colour. Hypopigmentation can occur naturally by the body’s own inability to produce melanin, but can also be brought on by exposure to certain types of lasers. Treatment for hypopigmented skin may include laser or light based therapies such as UVB to induce the production of melanin.
Pulsed Dye Laser (PDL)
What is PDL?
The Pulse Dye Laser (PDL) is excellent in treating pigmented lesions such as red acne scarring, birthmarks, and raised lesions such as hypertrophic and keloid scarring. The PDL works by targeting and breaking down blood vessels, thus inducing pigment change and visible improvement. PDL can also treat hypertrophic acne scarring and warts by flattening them over a series of treatments.
What is a PDL treatment like?
The laser will specifically target the lesion or scar. Patient downtime is usually minimal, and may include localized bruising that can last up to 1-2 weeks. It is recommended that patients refrain from taking any anti-inflammatories/aspirin, green tea or Vitamin E for a week prior to receiving injections as it can increase the risk of bruising. If the treatment size is small, most patients will not require a local anaesthetic. The application of an ice pack may help to alleviate any post procedure swelling. Topical antibiotic creams or ointments should be applied as directed in order to prevent infections. It is also advisable to avoid the use of any abrasive skin cleansers and scrubbing of the treated area.
Levulan/Porphyrins
Porphyrins are a group of chemicals that form many important substances for the body. One substance called haemoglobin (protein in red blood cells) is responsible for carrying oxygen in the blood. When porphyrins are not used as a component of haemoglobin, they absorb energy from photons (particles of light) and transfer this energy to surrounding oxygen molecules. Levulan which is derived from porphyrins can be used to enhance the effects of photodynamic therapies like IPL and Blu-U. Levulan is a 20% solution of Aminolevulinic Acid (ALA); which is a topical medication that has been used extensively for the treatment of a variety of different skin conditions, and is approved by the FDA and Health and Welfare Canada for the treatment of sun damaged skin and acne.
Accutane
Millions of Canadians suffer from acne, and while many can find success using physician grade products, there continue to be patients who find little to no improvement. Accutane is a powerful drug that works by suppressing the production of sebum, resulting in minimal clogging of the pores and therefore clearer skin. Since Accutane is a highly concentrated form of vitamin A, it is essential that no vitamin A supplements are consumed for the duration of treatment. The treatment cycle for Accutane takes approximately 4-6 months and frequent blood tests will be needed for the duration of treatment to monitor the drug’s effect on the body.
Accutane is sometimes criticized for its potential side effects; however, it is important to understand that its side effects are primarily external, with very few internal side effects. In fact, other oral therapies such as Tetracycline antibiotics and oral contraceptives Link to Birth Control Pill can have much more serious side-effects. Accutane has a very safe profile, resulting in few internal side effects, but is often associated with significant external side effects including dry skin, lips, eyes and the development of eczema. Other rare, but common side effects include aches and pains, headaches and feelings of fatigue. The most serious side effect of Accutane is birth defects. If one becomes pregnant on Accutane or within 6 months after taking Accutane, there is a high risk of developing birth defects in the unborn child. If one becomes pregnant on Accutane it is necessary to terminate the pregnancy.
Birth Control Pill (OCP)
The birth control pill (oral contraceptive pill) is often prescribed for females who experience hormonal acne. The pill can help to decrease levels of ovarian androgens, while also lowering testosterone. High testosterone levels can cause an increase in sebum production which can subsequently lead to acne breakouts.
Females using the birth control pill should take extra precaution as its primary benefit (the prevention of conception) may be compromised when used together with some other acne treatments. Also, the pill prescribed for reducing acne may have a lower dosage for preventing conception then other OCP’s on the market. It is imperative that patients taking Accutane are placed on the pill prior to the commencement of treatment, since the medication can cause serious birth defects to an unborn fetus.
Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is a popular ingredient in many skin care products. In nature it is found in the bark of the willow tree, but can be synthesized in labs for physician use. In most over the counter preparations, salicylic acid works as an exfoliant to promote the sloughing away of dead skin cells, therefore unclogging the hair follicle and keeping the pores free of any cellular debris.
Concentrations of salicylic acid can range from .05%-30% and may cause stinging, burning, and skin irritation in higher percentages. It is best to see the Dermatologist in order to determine which individual product and/or concentration is going to yield the best results for your skin concerns and skin type. Dryness, peeling, and flaking of the skin can also occur, but can be reduced with the use of an oil-free moisturizer with soothing properties (Toleriane Spa Moisturizer). Some salicylic acid products even contain anti-inflammatory; soothing ingredients to counteract any potential side effects (SwissTEC Clarifying Elixir). Using salicylic acid in conjunction with other acne treatment products such as Retin A, Differin, or benzoyl peroxide can also increase dryness, peeling, or stinging. If irritation or dryness is bothersome, scaling back the use of the product to every other day or every third day is often helpful. It is always best to visit the Dermatologist or Skin Care Specialist who will be able to create an individualized skin care regime that is personalized to your skin and your needs (Speak to a Skin Care Specialist).
AHA’s
AHA’s or Alpha Hydroxy Acids are extremely popular and effective ingredients that are well suited to address acne-prone skin, while promoting exfoliation and an overall healthy skin tone. There are many forms of AHA’s including glycolic acid, lactic acid and malic acid, which also range in available potencies (DCL Skin Renewal, SkinCeuticals Retexturizing Activator). It is always best to visit the Dermatologist or Skin Care Specialist who will be able to create an individualized skin care regime that is personalized to your skin and your needs (Speak to a Skin Care Specialist).
Benzoyl Peroxide
Benzoyl peroxide works by introducing oxygen into the pore and killing acne bacteria. This ingredient is also capable of clearing the follicle of excess skin cells, which is normally responsible for the initial blockage. It is always best to visit the Dermatologist or Skin Care Specialist who will be able to create an individualized skin care regime that is personalized to your skin and your needs (Speak to a Skin Care Specialist).
Cortisone
Cortisone is a natural steroid that is produced by the body and released into the blood stream when the body is under stress. Cortisone can also be produced synthetically, and can be administered to reduce inflammation caused by acne, allergic reactions, arthritis, psoriasis, and breathing disorders. Synthetic cortisone can be administered using a variety of methods including by injection (Triamcinolone, Kenalog), orally or topically. Cortisone should not be taken or used if there is, or have been any recent fungal infection in the body.
Common side effects can include a “cortisone flare,” which occurs when the cortisone crystallizes and produces periods of pain lasting up to a few days. Hypopigmentation can also occur in patients with darker coloured skin. As with any injectable-based treatment, improper sterilization and injection techniques can lead to infections, so it is important that a trained medical professional perform the treatment.
Non-Comedogenic
A product that is labelled non-comedogenic has been proven not to cause pore or follicle blockages in most people. It is especially important for acne prone patients to ensure that all of their skincare products and makeup are considered non-comedogenic. Mineral makeup that is anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory and non-comedogenic (Glominerals, Colorescience Link to Shopping) is highly recommended as it prevent pore blockages, while also helping to heal acne breakouts.
TCA Peels
What is a TCA Peel?
TCA peels, (trichloroacetic acid) are a medium depth chemical peel, used to treat sun damaged skin, correction of fine lines, and acne scarring. TCA can also be used to repair damaged and aging ear lobes, often caused by wearing heavy earrings. Chemical peels work by penetrating and removing the outer layers of damaged skin.
What is a TCA Peel like?
A TCA peel normally takes approximately 30 minutes and can be booked approximately 4-6 weeks apart. A tingling, burning sensation is normally experienced when the peel is first being applied. A fan is used during the treatment to help alleviate any discomfort. Depending on the potency of the TCA peel that is used, patients may experience anything from mild peeling to more aggressive crusting and peeling of the skin. It is important to refrain from picking or scratching at the treatment site as this can increase the chance of scarring. To alleviate stinging and irritation, and to maintain moisture, a soothing lotion should be used (Toleriane Spa moisturizer). It is also important to wear a high SPF sunscreen post procedure (Dermaglow 85SPF).
Clindamycin
Clindamycin is an antibiotic that can be administered orally or topically. Topical based Clindamycin can come in a form of a lotion, gel, foam or pad. It is an effective treatment for acne on its own or in combination with other medications. Clindamycin is known to have negative reactions when used with some other medications so it is critical to notify your Doctor of any medications you are currently taking.
When applied topically, Clindamycin exerts its effects by slowing down the growth and eventually killing acne bacteria while also decreasing inflammation. Treatment may take up to 12 weeks to see full benefits.
Side Effects May Include:
- dry/ peeling skin
- itching /burning skin
- redness of skin
- oily skin
- new pimples or blemishes appearing
- headaches
Erythromycin
Erythromycin is an antibiotic used to slow down the growth of bacteria in the body and reduce acne inflammation. It is important to use medication as directed. Side effects may include dry, itchy skin to more severe burning and stinging.
Adapalene- Differin®
Differin® is a topical therapy prescribed for the treatment of acne. Differin® comes in three forms, which includes two gels of different strengths and a cream. The medication works by going deep within the pores to remove the plug that causes whiteheads and blackheads. This helps to clear acne and prevent new acne from returning.
Tretinoin- Retin A
Retin A helps treat acne by exfoliating the skin, and also reduces the production of whiteheads and blackheads. Retin A should only be applied to dry skin in light layers as directed by your Doctor. For the duration of treatment it is advised that sun exposure be avoided as sun light can have adverse effects on treatments. It is important for a high SPF sunscreen to be used during the course of Retin A treatment (Dermaglow 85SPF). Side effects while on Retin A may include burning and/or stinging of the skin, to slight peeling and dryness of the skin.
Tazarotene-Tazorac®
Tazorac® is a retinoid prescription that is applied to the skin and comes in a form of a cream or gel. Tazorac® works by unplugging whiteheads and blackheads and reducing acne breakouts. For most, skin improvement can be noticed after a month’s use, full benefit can be seen in approximately 12 weeks. For the duration of treatment it is advised that sun exposure be avoided as sun light can have adverse effects on treatments. It is important for a high SPF sunscreen to be used during the course of Retin A treatment (Dermaglow 85SPF)
Tetracycline
Tetracycline is an oral medication that can treat bacterial infections including acne, by inhibiting the growth and spread of the acne bacteria. Doctors recommend that acne patients avoid sun light especially when taking Tetracycline as the skin will be sensitive, so it is essential to use a high SPF sunscreen during the course of treatment (Dermaglow 85SPF).
While on Tetracycline minor side effects may include:
- upset stomach
- diarrhea
- sore mouth
- change in skin color (redness)
Minocycline
Minocycline is a prescription drug from the Tetracycline class of antibiotics sharing similar benefits and side effects. Minocycline is effective when topical acne therapies have had little success. Minocycline is usually prescribed for more severe acne that is widespread on many areas of the body. Patients taking Minocycline must be cautioned as it can reduce the effectiveness of oral contraceptives.
Doxycycline
Doxycylcline is a prescription drug from the Tetracycline class of antibiotics having similar side effects and benefits. Doxycycline antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects can give between 15-25% improvements of acne in a patient. For females taking doxycycline with an oral contraceptive, doxycycline may reduce its effectiveness so extra precaution should be used.
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